c}It was not until the 1920's that photograhy began to replace illustration. Photographic imagery and ideals of feminine beauty were heavily influenced by the movie industry. Work was studio based as location photography was not practicable. The clothes themselves were usually from Paris and the couture gowns were indicative of the fact that fashion was still very exclusive. The relationships between Photography, Painting and Art were being explored and established. Some felt that fashion photography was a capitulation to commercialism and somehow not real photography. Edward Steichen, who joined Vogue in 1923, trained as an artist but symbolically destroyed all his canvases in 1918 to concentrate on photography Photographers such as George Hoyningen-Huene were more influenced by Art Deco and the Bauhaus than by Haute Couture. In these pioneer days, photographers were given a free hand and competition between the magazines Vogue and Harpers Bazaar encouraged creativity.