By the 1930's fashion photography had become a distinctive visual genre
in the Arts. Couture was still for the aristocratic but fashion itself
was beginning to become less elite. Vogue had become an important arbiter
of fashion, purveying elegant and tasteful images to its affluent readers
who had the time, money and dedication to be well dressed. Development
of hand held cameras and faster film speeds (Particularly the 1/1000 Leica)
made outdoor shoots feasible. The Rolliflex camera and colour film provided
new levels of reality. Images by sport's photographer Martin Munkaacsi
and by the American Fresh Air School captured the new interest in outdoor
activities such as swimming and golf. These vibrant, sporty images ran
side by side with the more traditional Grand Dame studio photographs.
The Surrealism Art movement had a huge influence and there was a marked
shift from classicism to surrealism. Photographs by Man Ray and Horst
P. Horst provided a fusion of contemporary art and fashion.
World War II effectively closed down the fashion industry. Paris became
isolated by the French Occupation in 1940 and photographers such as Man
Ray and Horst P. Horst emigrated to New York. The shift from Europe to
the U.S.A. was coupled with the emergence of a youthful and sporty American
look.