Materialism and hedonism shaped the 1980's. Fashion exploded into a global
consumer industry. The advertising industry boomed. Bi-annual designer
collection became media events attended by camera and video crews. Fashion
photographers played an important role in feeding the global appetite
for fashion, glamour and materialism. Beauty ideals continued to change.
The Supermodels emerged as icons of physical perfection. But individuality
also became an alternative to classical beauty. Pin up boys, championed
by Bruce Weber, became the new icons for advertising imagery.
New wave magazines such as The Face, I-D and Blitz documented the counter culture and provided a breeding ground for new photographers such as Nick knight and Corinne Day.
The backlash against 1980's materialism was reflected in the grunge, deconstruction and minimalism of the nineties. Fashion images became more about real life and attitude than the clothes themselves. Skinny, suburban girls modelled street smart clothes. Kate Moss epitomised the dazed and confused waif look. Michael Bracewell of the Guardian commented that "The fashion images of the new youth seem to lack any positivity save that of the junkies gift for self delusion and bombed out apathy."
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