1890 | 1900 | 1910 | 1920 | 1930 | 1940 | 1950 | 1960 | 1970 | 1980 | 1990 | 2000

Avendon, Richard

Bailey, David

Beaton, Cecil

Bourdin, Guy

Blumenfeld, Erwin

Coffin, Clifford

Dahl-Wolfe, Louise

De Mayer, Adolfe

Donovan, Terence

Duffy, Brian

Frissell, Tony

Horst, Horst P

Hoyningen-Huene

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Maywald, Will

Hoyningen-Huene

Maywald, Will

Moon, Sarah

Morel, Jean

Munkacsi, Martin

Newton, Helmut

Parkinson, Norman

Penn, Irwin

Ray, Man

Steichen, Edward

Stern, Bert

Turbeville, Deborah

 

 

 

 

The backlash against 1980's materialism was reflected in the grunge, deconstruction and minimalism of the nineties. Fashion images became more about real life and attitude than the clothes themselves. Skinny, suburban girls modelled street smart clothes. Kate Moss epitomised the dazed and confused waif look. Michael Bracewell of the Guardian commented that "The fashion images of the new youth seem to lack any positivity save that of the junkies gift for self delusion and bombed out apathy."

In May 1997 President Clinton spoke out against the Heroin Chic phenomenon and the industry's vogue for emaciated, spaced out models. Calvin Klein's advertising and the photographs of David Sorrenti outraged but they also reflected some of the realities of youth in the 90's.


Gritty realism may have temporarily replaced idealisation in fashion photography but there has been a resurgence of glamour. Haute Couture designs by John Galliano and the late Gianni Versace captured by leading photographers such as Richard Avedon and Steven Meisel celebrate beautiful, extravagant clothes and hark back to a different era.
The 1990's have also seen the growth of digital imagery and manipulation. Photographers such as David La Chapelle and Andrea Giacobbe have used computers and visual art to manipulate pictures and produce surreal fashion imagery.

 


Globalisation and developments in Information Technology mean that trends and fashions are transmitted more quickly. The pace of change in fashion is accelerating. To keep abreast of these changes, photographers on the cutting edge have to quickly assimilate avant-garde trends and appropriate stylistic markers into their work. The most successful not only have a distinctive personal style but are continually in touch with current trends. Because of the key role they play in marketing and advertising, the top fashion photographers have become hugely powerful in the fashion business. Colin McDowell, fashion historian and journalist, comments "It is the fashion photographers who are the real power brokers in the industry, wielding an influence even greater than the top designers". In an industry driven by publicity, the photographer is king.
What remains constant is that beautiful woman, desirable clothes and talented photographers make a powerful combination.

  © lesleycody.com 2002