The backlash against 1980's materialism was reflected in the grunge, deconstruction and minimalism of the nineties. Fashion images became more about real life and attitude than the clothes themselves. Skinny, suburban girls modelled street smart clothes. Kate Moss epitomised the dazed and confused waif look. Michael Bracewell of the Guardian commented that "The fashion images of the new youth seem to lack any positivity save that of the junkies gift for self delusion and bombed out apathy."
In May 1997 President Clinton spoke out against the Heroin Chic phenomenon and the industry's vogue for emaciated, spaced out models. Calvin Klein's advertising and the photographs of David Sorrenti outraged but they also reflected some of the realities of youth in the 90's.
Gritty realism may have temporarily replaced idealisation in fashion photography
but there has been a resurgence of glamour. Haute Couture designs by John
Galliano and the late Gianni Versace captured by leading photographers
such as Richard Avedon and Steven Meisel celebrate beautiful, extravagant
clothes and hark back to a different era.
The 1990's have also seen the growth of digital imagery and manipulation.
Photographers such as David La Chapelle and Andrea Giacobbe have used
computers and visual art to manipulate pictures and produce surreal fashion
imagery.
Globalisation and developments in Information Technology mean that trends
and fashions are transmitted more quickly. The pace of change in fashion
is accelerating. To keep abreast of these changes, photographers on the
cutting edge have to quickly assimilate avant-garde trends and appropriate
stylistic markers into their work. The most successful not only have a
distinctive personal style but are continually in touch with current trends.
Because of the key role they play in marketing and advertising, the top
fashion photographers have become hugely powerful in the fashion business.
Colin McDowell, fashion historian and journalist, comments "It is
the fashion photographers who are the real power brokers in the industry,
wielding an influence even greater than the top designers". In an
industry driven by publicity, the photographer is king.
What remains constant is that beautiful woman, desirable clothes and talented
photographers make a powerful combination.